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Contact Admin. CAIRO, Egypt — In Egypt, almost every man has his ahwa — a traditional coffee shop where they come to meet friends, drink tea, smoke shisha and watch the world go by. Sometimes the water pipe is jokingly referred to as a durra , meaning a second wife in Arabic. Zakaria is a taxi driver, as are many of his friends, so they have a lot of breaks between customers.
The doors of ahwas are open to the street all year round, even in the surprisingly chilly Cairo winter. Patrons wrap scarves around their heads as they pull on their water pipes and sip hot sweet tea in tiny glasses. Cats wander in and out. Since Muslim Brotherhood president Mohamed Morsi was ousted and imprisoned in July , and replaced by a military regime, tens of thousands of his supporters have been arrested for their political affiliations and people are increasingly afraid to speak about politics in public.
But in ahwas , among old friends, these debates continue between those who back the regime and those who support the Brotherhood. Some are specialized ahwas. In my head the ahwa was a place of filth. Smoking shisha is a particular concern. Chairs and tables spill onto the sidewalk. The police periodically raid the ahwas , sometimes confiscating the furniture they find outside the establishments. These days, since the police have been back on the streets since the military coup in July , sometimes they come as often as three times a week.
When Mohamed Abdel Rahman, 39, who serves drinks in an ahwa downtown, is asked if he would allow his daughter to sit at an ahwa , he responds emphatically no. At one of the Borsa ahwas , four young women, colleagues in a market research company, sit at a table playing cards. If we sat in an ordinary ahwa , everyone would be looking at us. Patrons watch football at an ahwa near the Cairo stock exchange, or the Borsa.
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